How we established that these have no radio
This sounds trivial and it is not. “No app” is rarely a specification a listing states; it is usually an absence you have to infer, and inference is how roundups get this wrong.
Two of these have it documented by a third party. EPA’s certified-EVSE dataset carries a network capabilityfield, and it records “No” for both Lectron Nexus models. Leviton publishes “no Wi-Fi” for the EV320 in its own specification and sells a separate model, the EV32W, as the Wi-Fi version — which is about as clear as a manufacturer can be.
For the remaining three, the basis is the manufacturer’s own published description: the ELEGRP and EVPOVO 40A units publish no app or scheduling function, and Battery Tender publishes an LCD for status and errors rather than connectivity. Where a listing simply does not mention Wi-Fi we have not treated silence as proof — those units are not on this page.
Getting your off-peak charging back
If you are on a time-of-use rate, this is the part that matters, so here is the full answer rather than a reassurance.
Schedule from the car.Every current EV lets you set a departure time or a charging window, and most let you set it per location so the schedule only applies at home. This is strictly better than scheduling from the charger: it survives you buying a different charger, it works at a friend’s house too, and it is one fewer system to keep online. Check your car’s manual for “scheduled charging” or “departure time”.
Or just plug in late. Unglamorous and completely effective if your off-peak window starts at a civilised hour. A 40-amp charger on a mid-size battery is done in a handful of hours, so starting at 10pm is rarely a constraint. Our charging-time guide has the arithmetic for your own battery.
What you cannot get backis per-session energy reporting from the charger itself, and whole-home load management. If you need the second one — because your panel genuinely cannot spare the circuit — a dumb charger is the wrong tool and you should read our load management guide and the 100-amp panel page instead. Load management requires a charger that can read a sensor, which requires electronics that talk.
What to look for when there is no app to distract you
Strip out the connectivity and a charger is four things. Rank them in this order.
- Safety certification, and preferably a checkable one.UL 2594 testing with an ETL or UL listing covers the whole unit. A presence in EPA’s ENERGY STAR database under a model number is better still, because you can look it up rather than take it on trust. Our certification guide explains what each claim covers, and our ENERGY STAR page lists the records.
- Cable length, measured honestly. Down the wall, along the floor, around the car to the side the port is on, up to the port, plus three feet of slack. Most people underestimate by ten feet because they measure a straight line through the vehicle. Two picks here publish 25 ft, which is the market ceiling.
- Enclosure rating, if the wall is outside.IP66 or NEMA 3R/4 is a supported outdoor install. “Weather-resistant” with no number is a garage unit, and we have said so in the picks where the maker does not publish a rating.
- Amperage that matches your circuit, not your ambition. 32A needs a 40A circuit, 40A needs 50A, 48A needs 60A, because code sizes a continuous load at 125% of its draw. Our amps and circuits guide covers the load calculation.
Plug-in or hardwired, on a dumb charger specifically
Four of the five picks here plug into a NEMA 14-50 outlet and one is hardwired, and the trade-off is slightly different when there is no app involved.
A plug-in unit on a 14-50 is the cheapest install and the charger moves house with you, which is a real argument for a product you are buying partly because it is simple. The cost is the receptacle: plug-in chargers have a reputation for nuisance-tripping GFCI protection, because NEC 210.8(A) requires GFCI for 125- to 250-volt garage receptacles and NEC 625.54 requires it for receptacles installed for EV charging, and the charger’s own ground-fault protection can conflict with an external GFCI. A hardwired charger is not subject to that receptacle requirement.
If you go plug-in, the receptacle grade matters more than the charger brand — see NEMA 14-50 outlets. Our plug-in versus hardwired guide makes the general case.
Who should buy a smart charger instead
Three situations, stated plainly so you do not buy the wrong thing off this page.
- Your panel cannot spare the circuit. Whole-home load management is the one feature that genuinely requires a connected charger, and it is cheaper than a service upgrade.
- Your car cannot schedule. Rare on anything recent, but if the car will not do it, the charger has to.
- You are on a utility managed-charging program that pays you to let the utility shift your charging. Those programs need a networked charger to participate.
If any of those is you, our smart charger roundup is the right page and this one is not.
The short answer
The Lectron Nexus 40A is the best version of this: a documented absence of networking, a certification you can look up, an IP66 housing and a 23 ft cable. The ELEGRP is the cheap one and still ETL certified. The Leviton is the pick if you are hardwiring on a 40A circuit. The Battery Tender covers home and travel in one box. The EVPOVO buys you a 25 ft cable for not much money. Set the schedule in the car and forget the whole subject.
One buying note. Several of these brands sell direct as well as on Amazon and the prices are not always the same. We earn a commission on the links here and nothing on the direct ones, and we would still rather you paid less — check both.